Monday, September 29, 2008

Mama Always Said ...

Amsterdam, Netherlands and Jodhpur, India

Murphy could have used traveling as a test case for his law. In an instant, one’s seemingly smooth sailing can turn into hurricane-force squalls, manageable only through Captain Dan’s belligerent willpower.

I had just boarded the third of four legs, Amsterdam to Mumbai, in my flight schedule to India. It began inauspiciously with the Captain suggesting a slight delay due to some erratic behaviour in the left engine. Although after only a brief delay, we began the monotonous taxi out to the runway. Everything to my knowledge was progressing swimmingly, so I began to doze off, exhausted from 15 hours of jumping through hoops. Three quarters of an hour into the flight, my less-than-refreshing beauty sleep was abruptly cut short by a pop, a momentary loss of light and a sudden turbulent lurching to the left. Piercing my drowsy haze, I attempted to assess the situation. There was a distinct lack of dangling oxygen masks, runaway food carts and hysteria, your typical plane-crash fare, so I deduced the evasion of our demise and unwittingly hit the snooze button on potential disaster.

Upon waking a second time, I found that we had arrived. Pleased at the realization that I had just touched down in India, I stretched to get a first glimpse of my ephemeral home. To my surprise, the large white box letters “SCHIPHOL” of Amsterdam’s International Airport were staring me down. In fact, I was still in Europe, a long way from the Asian Sub-Continent.

I latter discovered that one of the plane’s two generators had died in midair. Upon landing, we waited patiently on board while the faulty generator was examined below. After an hour, we were finally informed that the plane had been grounded indefinitely; resulting in a series of unfortunate events: waiting to queue at a transfer desk, queuing at a transfer desk, commiserating with other stranded passengers, waiting some more, receiving water and an almond cookie, changing queues, waiting less patiently, obtaining our new itineraries, and picking up a small toiletries bag before ambling towards a hotel bed. Hot, sweaty, and frustrated, I resigned myself to a night in Amsterdam, without the opportunity to explore.

A half day removed from chaotic airport terminals was the perfect release of stress. Again as in the beginning of my trip, I was fresh and alert, fully prepared for the last several legs. I was now routed though Abu Dhabi and Mumbai before supposedly arriving in Jodhpur. Fortunately, these last legs were much less eventful, except for the wonderfully spontaneous conversations with fellow travelers. I was befriended by a number of young Indians in the domestic terminal in Mumbai. In fact, there was even an unofficial line-up to speak with me at one point!

My first Indian inefficiency experience did not take long to occur … the transfer between international and domestic terminals in Mumbai was a bustling, testosterone-filled traffic jam. The sprawling queue was a result of a broken baggage security machine. The situation would be almost unimaginable in the Western world … a hundred men with luggage carts all pushing towards a bottle neck just before the exit, while continually arguing for every inch with an exorbitant number of supposed airport officials. I was the only Caucasian and stood out like snowflake on a muddy road.

The flight to Jodhpur was short and sweet and gave me an opportunity to practice my French with a Belgian couple; although, in retrospect it was probably more them practicing their English. I was met by Veena, one of my new Indian mothers, who easily picked me out of a crowd. The taxi ride back to our Hotel was as noisy as a wedding procession and as tortuous as a roller coaster ride, worsened by the unpredictable nature of the autorickshaw drivers.

Immediately upon being introduced to the rest of the group, I was informed that we were to be thrust into an unexpected meeting with my NGO supervisor. So I was given barely half an hour to throw off the cobwebs and remove the haggard expression from my face. A cold shave latter and I was more than ready to wade back into traffic for the ride to Jal Bhagirathi Foundation (JBF) compound. My co-intern Abi and I listened intently as Mr. Singh explained the JBF mission and described the intricacies of our project and his expectations. In essence, our project will be based around collecting primary research on women's self-help groups (SHGs) in Rajasthan, so that JBF can effectively implement micro-enterprise best practices throughout a network of local groups. Furthermore, he elucidated the pith of our research: evaluating the SHGs, appreciating their capacity for marketable production, and subsequently determining the liability of supply and demand for this production. Simply, we are tasked with determining successful procedures in SHGs and using them to help establish a means to self sustainability. Overall, I am absolutely ecstatic about the opportunity to tackle this initiative. Its scope and scale are much larger than I had anticipated, but the sense of trust permeated by JBF was overwhelmingly empowering. I truly hope this initial excitement will remain with me for the entirety of my participation.

So after a rather taxing journey to Jodhpur and the trepidation of being immediately thrust into the spotlight, I was rewarded with a sense of genuine adventure. As rapidly as things can go from good to bad to worse, they can just as easily reverse course. But then again, I suppose life is like a box of chocolates …

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Waving Goodbye in the Rear-view Mirror

Somewhere over the Atlantic

My last week in Canada has come and gone … I got my Indian Visa (after some completely unnecessary difficulty), tied up some lose ends in Kingston, and wished the Sens good luck in the upcoming season. In terms of my preparation, I could not be more set for my excursion. However, with that being said, I have yet to properly acquaint myself with the Hindi language … a relatively major setback; although, one in which all my fellow program participants will suffer through as well. I have about 36 hours of flight and stop-over time: enough to be able to fake it by the time I arrive … hopefully.

Earlier this morning, even as I meticulously arranged my travel necessities throughout my luggage, I was still utterly unconscious of the situation before me. Even countless descriptions, explanations, and qualifications of my departure to both friends and family have not properly solidified my mind’s awareness. The preparation, although new, was horribly perfunctory, which probably contributed to my lack of acceptance. Yet, the more probable explanation is that I have minimal experience with traveling of this kind … what I would define as “spontaneous.” Sure, I have taken numerous road trips which lack a specific purpose, destination, schedule or some mix of the three; however, the voyage for which I am about to depart dwarfs those excursions in magnitude and scope. So without a lucid idea of the opportunities and challenges ahead, perhaps my mind is using the ancient technique of “if you don’t think about it, it’s not really there” for my own self defense. So as I have endeavoured to kept an even temperament, my mother has experienced trepidation (with regards to my safety, my health, and/or dismembering plane crashes) and my father has experienced excitement (with regards to my departure and subsequent authoritarian rule over the TV) … which furtively I hope is not too strong, but then again how many parents send their children off by including the words “but not too soon.”

Regardless of my realization or lack thereof, I am on a plane and it is heading across the Atlantic. The time for reconsideration is long past. Nothing left, but to finally accept the inevitable: I’m going to India baby!

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

JBF

Ottawa, Canada

So, it has been quite some time since my last post. The date of my departure is drawing nearer, but for the time being, I'm still just soaking up my last few weeks in Canada. In my last post, I promised to elaborate on what I'll be doing in India. Honestly, I am still pretty vague myself on what I'll be tackling, but I do know some bits and pieces, so here goes ...

The Indian NGO I'll be interning with is called the Jal Bhagirathi Foundation or JBF for short (www.jalbhagirathi.org). The are located in Jodhpur, Rajasthan, which is about 400 km southwest of New Delhi on the edge of the Thar Desert. The Foundation was founded in 2002 and their mission is to work "towards strengthening the capacity of desert communities to manage their scarce water resources through traditional best practices." They are actively involved in:
  • Supporting social mobilization efforts and strengthening community organizations for sustainable natural resource management;
  • Advocating community rights over common property resources;
  • Building a network of non-governmental organizations (NGOs), community-based organizations (CBOs), and government leaders in order to influence national and state water policies and laws; and,
  • Integrating gender concerns in natrual resource management.
Well, that was sure a mouthful ... as for my role, here is exactly what was written for me:

"In particular, JBF would like Jack to focus on Jal Marutahra, the organization's developing micro-enterprise initiative. The purposes of Jal Marutahra are to: identify skills and production groups inj local areas; identify marketable products to which these skill sets can be applied; build capacities of production groups to create these products; and establish market linkages for a source of viable income."

So from my understanding, I will be tackling the initial stages of a large micro-enterprise program. What that means and what the day to day activities will be actually be are beyond the scope of my understanding at this point. However, I am terribly excited about my host NGO and the initiative I will be working to develop. This appears, at least at this stage, to be exactly the type of development issues I was hoping to engage and I cannot wait to find out more!